A desert paradise awaits at Parker Palm Springs

Parker Palm Springs feels like your little secret.

This sprawling 13-acre mid-century modern property, just a few miles away from the boutiques, restaurants and museums of downtown Palm Springs, California, is hidden behind tall hedges, ensuring privacy and the sense you are in a different world. It’s a world of whimsy, with a manicured croquet lawn around one corner and a giant chess board in another; and of kitsch, thanks to Jonathan Adler’s eclectic interior design – think brass palm trees, macrame owls and fuchsia velvet curtains.

My senses were already in overdrive as I walked into the lobby where I was greeted by two knights in shining armour (both fake) and the friendly front desk staff (all real). While checking in, I was given the rundown on the on-site restaurants, pools and the hotel spa: Palm Springs Yacht Club. Around me, the lobby was buzzing with guests hanging out by the indoor fire pit, wine glasses in hand, eager for the night to begin. The hotel has six dining options, such as the laidback Norma’s and bewitching Mister Parker’s, making it easy to stay on property and enjoy dinner and cocktails without having to worry about transportation.

Fun, funky rooms

Parker Palm Springs opened in 2004, but the property dates back to the 1950s when it was the first Holiday Inn in California. The hotel’s 156 rooms and villas are spread out across multiple buildings, connected by pathways that wind past spectacularly green gardens, fountains and fire pits. My patio room was in the North Building, and I was thrilled to find that all the fun decor was not confined to the lobby.

My spacious room had retro touches, like a kitschy wall hanging of a bird that looked like it had flown in from the 1960s, and pops of colour thanks to a bright red armchair, metallic gold footstool and orange doors leading to the mirrored bathroom. I’ve never seen a bathroom like this, with lucite framed mirrors and fabulous golden taps shaped like fish. The toiletries were just as special and included Hermès soap, Le Labo shampoo and conditioner, Bulgari shower gel and lotion, and Aesop mouthwash. The Parker’s dedication to eccentricity runs deep, even down to the bathroom amenities.

The patio could easily seat several people, with a couch, day bed and tables and chairs if you want to eat or enjoy a coffee outside. In the warmer summer months, it might be too toasty to spend much time out there, but one of the property’s three pools is only steps away from the North Building, making it easy to cool off whenever the mood strikes. I spent a good amount of time on the patio reading and soaking up the views of palm trees and bougainvillaea and even with a few people walking by, I felt I was in my own secluded space.

Drinking and dining

No two dining experiences at the Parker are alike. Mister Parker’s is dark and moody, perfect for clandestine meetings or a night out with friends. Counter Reformation invites wine lovers to come for a good time, not a long time – this is where you sidle up to the bar to discover a new vino or two and indulge in small plates. Bright and airy Norma’s is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner – its menu covering all the bases: eggs, pancakes, salads and burgers.

Dinner at Mister Parker’s is a classic affair, with staples like lobster bisque, crab cakes and beef tartare prepared tableside. The lobster pappardelle is decadent and delicious, with its savoury bagna càuda sauce enhanced by an infusion of caviar. The scallops are also a hit, seared to perfection and topped with smoked pork belly and a sweet, crunchy grilled corn relish. The lights are way down low in Mister Parker’s, but as a fun touch that doesn’t interfere with the ambience, diners are given a small torch upon arrival, should they need some illumination.

Counter Reformation is smaller with just 20 seats at a bar. If you have something to get off your chest, head to the back where there is an antique confessional, otherwise dive straight into the menu. During my dinner, only one bartender was working the packed house, but it felt like I had her undivided attention. She guided me through the wine list, helped me choose my first glass of Champagne and when I wasn’t sure of my next selection, she put together a few small pours so I could find the right one. The plates are small, giving you an opportunity to try more. One standout is the caviar and doughnuts, a sweet, savoury and salty combination served on a pair of ceramic hands. The juicy counter burger is another solid option, along with the flavourful chistorra sausage in a potato bun, the bar’s take on a hot dog.

The inside of Norma’s feels like an elevated diner with cosy booths and a coffee bar but ask for a table outside on the shaded terrace. Breakfast, which is served all day and night, begins with a refreshing smoothie shot, with a new flavour every day. You can taste the freshness in this and the freshly squeezed orange juice, made from fruit and produce grown locally in Coachella Valley. The menu is expansive and during my first visit, I enjoyed an overflowing plate of lox, capers, onions and accoutrements on a bagel. Looking for a similar vibe, the next morning I tried eggs Benedict with smoked salmon and loved that the base was pancake rather than the traditional English muffin. Whatever you do, order the fresh, warm doughnuts to start (you’re on holiday!) and end with the light pavlova (you’re still on holiday!). This mix of textures, with the crunchy meringue and smooth fruit sorbet, is a delight.

The essence of Palm Springs

Staying at Parker Palm Springs is a treat. The soul of Palm Springs itseld is apparent through its mid-century modern style, bold design, vibrant art and inclusiveness. The service is top-notch, the dining options plentiful and there is always something to do, whether it’s going for a dip in the pool or playing a match or two on the red clay tennis court. It feels like a true getaway.